A complete winter weekend in Cox's Bazar

Cox's Bazar is the trip almost every Bangladeshi family takes at least once, and it is also the trip most often done badly — arriving exhausted, staying in the wrong part of town and spending the weekend in traffic. Winter, from November to February, is the season worth planning around: the sea is calm, the humidity drops and the evenings are genuinely pleasant.

Getting there from Dhaka

You have three realistic options. Flying takes about an hour, with several daily departures on US-Bangla, Novoair and Biman. It is the least tiring choice and, once you account for a night's hotel saved, often the best value for a short trip. The train to Cox's Bazar takes around nine hours and is comfortable, scenic and hard to get tickets for — book the moment the counter opens. Overnight coaches take ten to eleven hours; the better operators run modern sleeper buses that make the journey tolerable.

Whichever you choose, avoid arriving and immediately starting a day trip. Build the first afternoon around settling in and watching the sunset.

Where to stay

The beach splits into distinct zones, and they suit different trips.

• Kolatoli is the busiest, with the widest range of hotels, restaurants and shops within walking distance. Best if you want convenience and do not mind crowds.
• Sugandha and Laboni are closer to the town centre and the market. Cheaper, noisier, and fine for a short stay.
• Marine Drive towards Inani is where the larger resorts sit. Quieter, much better for families and couples, but you will need transport for everything.

In winter, book at least three weeks ahead for a weekend, and longer for the Victory Day and New Year periods. Sea-view rooms carry a premium that is worth paying once.

Day one — arrival and the main beach

Check in, eat, then walk the beach in the late afternoon. Sunset from Laboni or Kolatoli point is the classic Cox's Bazar experience. Swim only between the flagged areas and only when lifeguards are on duty; the currents here are stronger than they look and every season brings avoidable accidents. In the evening, the Burmese Market is worth an hour for dried fish, blankets, pickles and imported cosmetics — bargain, and expect to pay around half the opening price.

Day two — Marine Drive, Himchari and Inani

This is the day that justifies the trip. Hire a car or a CNG for the day and drive south along Marine Drive, one of the most beautiful coastal roads in South Asia, with the Bay of Bengal on one side and green hills on the other.

Stop at Himchari for the waterfall and the viewpoint — the falls are modest outside the rains, but the view over the coastline is excellent. Continue to Inani Beach, where coral boulders scatter across a much quieter stretch of sand, then on to Patuartek, which is quieter still. Carry water and snacks; food options thin out beyond Himchari.

Return before dark. Marine Drive is unlit for long stretches and driving it at night is not worth the risk.

Day three — Maheshkhali or a slow morning

If you have the energy, take the speedboat or launch to Maheshkhali Island to see the Adinath Temple and the Buddhist pagoda, with a stop at the betel leaf gardens. If you would rather not spend the last day travelling, use the morning for the beach and shop for dried fish and handicrafts before your afternoon departure.

Eating well

Seafood is the reason to be here. Rupchanda, coral, lobster and crab are widely available, but quality varies enormously. Two rules: choose a place with visible turnover rather than the emptiest restaurant with the best view, and agree the price per piece before it is cooked — this is where tourists are most often overcharged. The barbecue stalls near Kolatoli are excellent value in the evening.

A realistic budget

For a couple travelling from Dhaka for three days in winter, expect roughly BDT 6,000 to 15,000 per person for return transport depending on mode, BDT 3,500 to 12,000 per night for a mid-range to upper-mid hotel, BDT 3,000 to 5,000 for the Marine Drive day with a car, and BDT 1,500 to 2,500 per person per day for food. Add a margin for shopping, because everyone does.